I could get used to this.

No sooner had we sat down on the terrace for a pre-dinner drink than the skies clouded over and it started to rain. Within a minute the town emptied of tourists and a serene calm descended on the squares and boulevards. None of this bothered Wilf who was being royally entertained by the waiting staff on the broad balcony of the restaurant. While we dined inside he was feasting on a low-protein meal of fish and rice followed by a low fat yoghurt specially prepared in the hotel kitchens. Despite firm instructions that he was not to be pampered ,the kitchen staff , Michelin chef included, would appear every ten or so minutes to chat with him and illicitly slip heaven alone knows what calorie enhanced goodies in his direction .

From Wilfs position on the first floor he could look through the balustrade to see who was entering and leaving the hotel. This activity and the onerous responsibility that went with it kept him fully occupied for the full three hours that we were in the dining room. From time to time he would cast a half reproachful glance through the French doors in our direction until another member of staff arrived and he would reprise his ' I'm an orphan, please feed me' routine . Being France none of the other diners thought that this behaviour on the part of dog, staff or owners was in the slightest bit strange. Quite a difference from Scotland where the presence of a dog in a hotel would cause much tutting and murmuring about health, cleanliness and sanitation.

Dinner started with a preamble that " dining in the restaurant was like eating with friends. There would be no menu, the chef would just serve the freshest of todays produce. However, if we had any allergies then we should let the kitchen know and it would be taken into account". My response ' Aye, I'm allergic to the prices' elicited a quick kick on the ankle from 'the font' and a blank, unhumoured look from the maitre'd.

When I was a boy spume was the off white frothy foam that used to be found on beaches at the high water mark. These days spume has clearly become an intrinsic part of dining. My fish was submerged under melon spume while 'the fonts' poached egg (believe it or not the chefs speciality) swam in a sea of fennel spume.A wonderful, carefully prepared, delicious meal, but very spume heavy.